Bewitching Black Canyon Colorado
Santa Cruzin'
Sonoma Sipping
Horsetooth Rock Hike
Hiking in the Early Spring
Lake Michigan
Beautiful Boston
Cape Cod Caper
Trail Ridge Road in the Spring
Walt Disney World Magic
Steamboat Springs Skiing
Strawberry Park Hot Springs
Stunning St. Thomas
Winter Hiking in the Colorado Mountains
Escape to Key West
Biking in the Colorado High Country
Not the Michigan of My Youth
The Eiffel Tower
Making Guests Feel Spoiled
Glittering City by the Bay
Mysterious Exquisite Venice
Off We Go
Flights Versus Road Trips
How to Enjoy Traveling for Work
Great Anniversary Travel Ideas Sweet 'n' Easy Anniversaries
Get-Away
Catch the Glow Parade in Estes Park, Colorado
Bewitching Black Canyon Colorado This year my husband, Tom, went on a cool fishing trip in the Gunnison River valley in southern Colorado. He had such a great time that he invited me back to that gorgeous area for a quick getaway. Just because I went to college for two years at Western State Colorado University in Gunnison, doesn't mean I was able to see everything the valley and surrounding mountains have to offer. Far from it. And, I had always wanted to see the renowned Black Canyon. Tom thought that would be great.
Cute Cabins
Tom wanted to show me where he stayed on his fishing trip, so we stayed in the Rockey (yes, that's how it's spelled...) River Resort Cabins, about four miles north of Gunnison, off of the road that leads to Crested Butte, Colorado and Ski Area. The cabins are situated next to the river, ideal for Tom, the fisherman.
The cabins have the mountain rustic experience, but are spacious and homey. They are also pet friendly, so our two little dachshund puppies loved exploring the beautiful grounds. Each cabin has a kitchenette, (ours was actually a pretty spacious kitchen and breakfast nook) which is convenient for morning coffee and breakfast. After exploring the shimmering Taylor Reservoir just to the northeast, we came back and cooked dinner in the cabin easily as well.
Blue Mesa Blue
The next morning we headed west out of Gunnison on Hwy. 50 for our cool canyon trip, which takes between 1-1 1/2 hours depending upon the road construction. (It usually takes an hour.) The great part about the trip is that the 28-mile long Beautiful Blue Mesa Reservoir, the largest in Colorado, glistens in the sun right next to the highway, beckoning anyone to jump in.
We found the marina on the western end of the reservoir. There we could launch or rent boats or hire fishing guides. Next time, Tom.
Black Canyon Magnificence
The entrance to the Black Canyon is well marked, about 8 miles east of Montrose, Colorado. It is a national park, so there is an entrance fee of $15, or an annual national park pass works as well. Once you pass the visitor center, the first option to view the canyon is via the East Portal Road. We read that the road is very windy and that having a four-wheel drive is optimal. There is a very steep set of stairs to climb down into the canyon, but we left that activity for another time.
On the South Rim there are several overlooks, beginning with Tomichi Point. And wow!
It is indeed black with mysterious, jagged crags and breathtaking views into the water carved canyon.
Some of the overlooks have hikes attached and even campgrounds down in the canyon. Most of them have picnic areas, which is good, since there are not any restaurants in the area. Our pets were welcome, but only on a leash.
Each one has a different view, including Painted Rock, with incredible geological artistry.
I wish I would have had a canvas, brush and paint.
We went as far as Sunset View Overlook, which displayed an amazing full length panorama of the canyon and the Gunnison River far below.
Even though it took me this long to see the Black Canyon, it is another one of Colorado's unique monuments not to be missed. Admittedly, it is difficult to choose which gorgeous site in our beloved state to visit. But if you love the outdoors, the Gunnison River with its valleys, canyons and lakes is truly one of the sparkling jewels in the Colorado crown.
This fun-loving spot on the California Coast holds a special place in my sweet husband's heart. Tom recalls cruising down from up north where he grew up to the carnival boardwalk in high school. There he found all kinds of carny games, an old wooden roller coaster and several other rides to delight him. As though the beach wasn't enough of a draw. And the fishing pier.
He was so excited to share his fond memories there when were first married (just a few years ago ;) and we were still brave enough to ride the (old wooden!) roller coaster.
Fast forward (a few--OK, many) more years when we decided to cruise down from visiting our son in Sonoma to revel in our sweet Santa Cruz. This time we dedicated more time to explore not only the boardwalk a beach, but the pier and the quaint town as well.
Our hotel was off the strip a little, but it was no problem, since our Spring Break did not coincide with most of California's. Parking was easy. Plan on paying $1-$1.50/hour. There are some lots that charge by the day, which might be better if want to hang out on the beach/boardwalk/fishing pier all day.
The Boardwalk/Beach
Since we were there before California's Spring Break, all of the rides and most of the food vendors were closed. They do, however, open on the weekends. The "casino" full of video and carny games was open. It reminded me of a larger Dave and Busters, awarding winners with tickets to redeem for prizes.
The beach is fun to access when money for carny games and rides run out. It's quite extensive, with several volleyball courts set up as well. The water was a little chilly in March. Not too cold for some hearty kids and wetsuit wearin' surfers.
Creamy Clam Chowder-Not just in Boston and Cape Cod
At the north end of the boardwalk sits a diner/coffee bar named Ideal. The somewhat worn exterior looks "beachy" belying the delicious food inside. The sign outside claimed to have the best clam chowder, but I'm always skeptical, for some reason. After all, we had sampled Boudin's clam chowder in their famous sourdough bread bowl on Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco. But wow. They were right! Whoever the judges were nailed it. It was really creamy and full of clamminess. Just delicious. br>
Another patron overheard our oohs and ahhs and offered his pick for clam chowder in another establishment, just up the hill from Ideal. We decided to try it and...NOPE! Not even close to the deliciousness at Ideal. To each his own.
The Fishing Pier
At the north end of the Boardwalk juts a long fishing pier that you can drive onto. (You will have to pay for parking, but it is cheaper than some of the lots.) Lining one side are several gift shops and restaurants that are fun to investigate. You can fish and crab without a fishing license on this or any California pier, and my husband had fun discussing the day's catch with the fishers.
What was really cool to see were the harbor seals chillin' on the platforms under the dock. I guess they jump on them and then just take naps. I'd never been so close to so many before.
The Quaint Downtown
Fluffy floral trees line the downtown, inviting visitors to peruse their many surf shops, coffee shops and other delightful establishments. It was a lovely day--we took our time strolling, the cherry blossom petals lightly floating down on the wispy breeze.
Too soon our time in sweet Santa Cruz came to an end. On to the next adventure.
In his quest for adventure and to pursue excellence, our son, Ted, has landed in the beautiful Sonoma Valley, California. Since we love to travel, we decided we must travel to see him and his lovely girlfriend Vivian. We were in for a sweet tour in this gorgeous area.
But first we were hosted at the magnificent Fairmont hotel in San Francisco. Ted pulled some strings and installed us in a beautiful tower room with our favorite San Francisco beckoning to us right below. The storied hotel is architecturally amazing, with luxury at every turn.
And, it's about a mile from Fisherman's Wharf, which is a short walk down the hill. (At the end of the night, we took a cable car back up that steep sucker.)
Soon we were off to Sonoma to reunite with our sweet son.
That night we enjoyed a scrumptious multi-course dinner at the Michelin recommended Sante restaurant that Ted manages, which is located in the lovely Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa. The varied menu includes such delicacies as foie gras, pork belly, Gruyere tart, braised lamb, delectable duck, tender filet of beef and flaky sea bass. Their experienced sommelier attends to pair your selections with the correct wines, enhancing the delicious experience. If you have any more room for decadence, the chocolate souffle melts in your mouth. What a beautiful and unmatched dining event.
But Ted wasn't done.
On a sunny day, we were treated to an exclusive wine tasting at the boutique Repris winery located on the historic Moon Mountain vineyard. Our host, Travis, greeted us by name and the first of many glasses of wine, as he gave us a little history behind the winery. We were then trundled up the steep vined hills in a 4-wheeler to an overlook of the winery.
and, surprise, a view of San Francisco! .
After several glasses of Grenache and others, our host took us back down the mountain and into the caves.
These caves were actually drilled into the mountain creating an other-worldly and cool (literally!) environment for the precious product to age. Our tour culminated in wine and cheese pairing in the charming turret, where we were invited to purchase their delicious offerings. Be advised that these wines are not the usual run-of-the-mill grocery store wines. Indeed, patrons may only purchase them during a wine tour or as a member of their enterprise. We were fortunate to be treated by our son, the manager of such a renowned restaurant, to arrange a unique tour of this lovely area. What an amazing once-in-a-lifetime occasion. Thanks, Ted!
It beckons to me almost every day. Looking up and to the west, Horsetooth Rock sits waiting for those brave enough to clamber over its granite face.
But you don't have to be too brave. The 5-mile round trip with a 1526 foot elevation change is relatively easy. The trail winds steadily up with not too many flat areas, but the trail is well-maintained. And shady areas frequently allow for respite from the gorgeous sun. Dogs are allowed as long as they are on leashes.
Views abound as we wound our way up the mountain. But we could only imagine the views that awaited us up on the rock.
Since I had never been there, I didn't know whether I would have an opportunity to climb the rock. I was determined to try, hoping that there was a way I could navigate. Turns out, it was a very easy to climb. Sure enough, once we were perched on the top, we were rewarded with the views of Long's Peak and a smidge of Pike's Peak to the southwest.
To the east, a glistening Horsetooth Reservoir and our beloved Fort Collins below. Breathtaking.
(See my foot?)
Reluctantly, we headed back down, enjoying a slight breeze. Just as we were rounding the last curve, the sky turned dark.
Tip: Always keep one eye on the sky when you hike into the Colorado mountains. Don't be fooled by the clear blue skies you enjoy in the Colorado mornings.
Sure enough, the skies opened up on the way home. We were thankful we woke up early for this special hike. Not only is it advisable to arrive early due to summer afternoon storms, there is limited parking in the designated lot. In addition, be aware that there is a $6-24hour usage fee. We arrived at 7:30 a.m. and there were only five spots left.
So, go early, bring water and snacks, and revel in the sweeping views. Not only is it a sweet hike, you'll record 17,000+ steps for your daily workout.
**Warning: Rattlesnakes like to bask in the sun on Horsetooth Rock Trail during the summer. Try going in May or June rather than July or August, unless you don't mind snakes.
We are always anxious to get into the mountains to go hiking after a snowy winter. The trick to a pleasurable walk is to time a hike when there is no snow on the ground, and that the ground has had a chance to dry out.
In Colorado, that can be challenging, because snow flies intermittently throughout the spring and even into June especially in the mountains.
On this gorgeous day we decided to explore an area about 20 minutes from our home. The City of Fort Collins owned Gateway Natural Area is located just a little way up Poudre Canyon. From Fort Collins travel north on Hwy. 287 (College Ave.)and veer right onto the bypass. After about 6 miles turn left at Hwy. 14.The turnoff to Gateway Natural Area is about 5 miles up Poudre Canyon. Turn right off of Highway 14 into a beautifully groomed park. Situated close to the picturesque Poudre River, there is also a covered picnic area. There is a fee of $6/day for use of the park and parking.
Since Gateway Natural Area is the access to the trail we wanted to hike, up to Seamon Reservoir, we were told that the trail started beyond the bridge the that crossed over the Poudre River. The hike is only about 1 1/2 miles one way. It is flat for about half of the hike and then is uphill to the reservoir the rest of the way.
Right before the steepest grade you will see the waterfall dam runoff into the river--really cool.
There is belly-boat and shore fishing on the reservoir--just no speed boats. Also, there is fly and lure fishing along the Poudre river.
We stopped at the reservoir, but there is a trail that goes up farther and around to a cove on the other side, where we were told the trail peters out. (And, the east side of the reservoir is privately owned.)
So, make sure you dress in layers. Colorado's weather can change in an instant. Use plenty of sunscreen; that gorgeous sunshine is closer than you think. But by all means, get out there! The fresh open-air exercise will feed your soul.
Once again, we found ourselves going "back to Michigan". It's a common phrase among ex-Michiganders. It seems unique. I've never really heard people say "back to Ohio" or "back to Illinois". Regardless, our journey landed us on the beach. The salt-free, shark-free ocean beach we have here in the US. What? OK, technically this gorgeous lake is not an ocean, but it sure looks and acts like one.
Powdered Sugar
Lake Express
After a long weekend in southwestern Wisconsin, filled with wedding flowers and celebration, we traveled the two hours to Milwaukee to catch the Lake Express ferry across the lake to Muskegon, Michigan. I had done my homework: Muskegon boasts one of the prettiest beaches called Pere Marquette. We decided to spend a few days there frolicking and relaxing with our kids.
Lots of Lakes
Our family loves water sports. However, even though the beach is pristine, and Lake Muskegon is right in town, we could not find any company that rented jet skis or speed boats for waterskiing in Muskegon. So, we reserved both jet skis and a boat in the neighboring town of Grand Haven, which is about a 15 minute drive south of Muskegon.
The lake we played on and in, Spring Lake in Grand Haven, is beautiful. Since we were there during the week, it was not busy. We jetted unimpeded and swam and skied to our heart's content. Warning: make sure everyone in your party knows the dangers of these sports; even then sometimes injuries happen.
Food
The food in both Muskegon (oh, the Rhubarb Ribs at Hearthstone Bistro! And the nachos at The Deck!) and Grand Haven was delicious.
Lodging
Our lodging, a four bedroom cottage steps from the beach, was a nice respite, albeit a little warm at night. However, the outside deck and patio area provided delicious breezes. The proprietor, Jo, was very sweet and left us helpful tips and bikes to use during our stay.
Muskegon on the Move
I must say, that after I booked our trip, I got some really sketchy reviews about Muskegon. By then we were locked in and couldn't change our trip. However, we loved it. The beach was beautiful, and we did not feel any of the anxiety that others warned us about. Muskegon has gone through some rough times recently, but they are turning the corner. The farmer's market we visited the day we left was one of the best I've shopped at. Muskegon still has a considerable road ahead of them, but they are on the move. We were happy to help them on their way to economic recovery.
Here are some Web sites that you can access if you want to plan your own Lake Michigan escape: Ferry:
Click here for Lake Express Ferry's Web Site
Cottage-a couple blocks from Lake Michigan and Lake Muskegon:
Click here for HomeAway's Web Site for this property
Jet skiis:
Click here for Jet ski rental in Grand Haven, Michigan
Pontoon boats, complete with tube and water skis:
Click here for boat rental Web Site
Muskegon Restaurants:
Hearthstone Bistro
Click here for Hearthstone Bistro
The Deck-Right on the beach!
Click here for The Deck
Grand Haven Restaurant-waterfront!
Click here for Snug Harbor Restaurant
Romantic and revolutionary thoughts whirled through my thoughts as we touched down at Boston's Logan Airport. The day was gorgeous; we were about to see our son in his newest place of employment: The Renaissance Boston Waterfront Hotel.
As part of the Marriott collection, the Renaissance Boston Waterfront delivers what people might expect from upscale Marriotts. Welcoming smiles greet customers in a gorgeous lobby, sporting a grand staircase. The rooms are luxurious, with sweeping sea views.
A truly authentic Italian dining experience awaits customers in the striking M.C. Spiedo, the Renaissance's restaurant, which boasts the fare of the James Beard award-winning celebrity chef duo Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier. The delicious antipasti, extensive wine list and various unique entrees make the patrons feel like they have been transported to another place and time where much attention to flavor and quality is valued.
Since we did not have much time in Boston, we decided to take the heralded "Duck Tour".
The tours are conducted all over Boston with a fleet of amphibious WWII vehicles nicknamed DUKs. They travel down the famous "Freedom Trail" and then into the Charles River with a view of Cambridge and the famous learning institutions within. 
Our driver was delightfully witty as she regaled us with the history and several points of interest. From what I hear, all of the drivers seek to entertain their guests. It lasts about 80 minutes, but the time flies and it's an amusing way to glimpse many of the Boston attractions. 
**You must arrive an hour ahead of your departure time. We got there about 1/2 hour before we wanted to go, but were told that the slot was booked. So, we had to wait until the next departure. Fortunately, there is a huge mall, the Shops at Prudential, right down the street that amused us as we waited for departure.
Fares for the Duck Tours (in 2014):
Standard Tour-departs from the Prudential Center and the Museum of Science
$34.99/adult
$28.99 student 12+, senior 62+, military
$23.99 child 3-11
$10.50 child <3, including infants
Abbreviated 65 min. Seasonal Tour-departs from the New England Aquarium
$31.99/adult
$25.99/student 12+, senior 62+, military
$20.99/child 3-11
$10.50/child <3, including infants
Find out more about the Duck Tours here: http://www.bostonducktours.com/tour.aspx
After our tour, we hopped into a taxi and asked to be whisked away to the famous Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market.
Boston is rife with history, so I wanted to see some of the buildings that were built in American infancy. Quincy Market surprised me. It was an imposing facade, reminiscent of Greek temples. Inside, it is lined with every type of food vendor imaginable (on both sides), with a relatively narrow aisle down the center. Halfway down it does open up to a large room full of tables. Then it continues with more vendors. We ate some good chowder, but found better chowder in Nantucket and Cape Cod. Find the review here:http://www.lovetohelpyou.com/TravelPage.html
Faneuil Hall was a famous meeting place in the past. Today, it houses vendors, but fewer than Quincy Market. There are more enticing shopping opportunities outside in the pedestrian mall as well as more actual stand-alone restaurants.
The New England Aquarium, which is on the harbor, is only about 1/3 mile away from Quincy Market. We strolled from there only one mile along the waterfront, enjoying the sea breeze, back to our Renaissance Boston Waterfront Hotel.
Boston is very walkable. And, since there is quite a lot of traffic, and parking is pricey, we chose to take a taxi at first and then to try to walk where we could. And, as they say in Boston and Cape Cod, you "shore" will enjoy the scenic shore. Our idyllic vacation weather luck continued to follow us, nudging us to discover the next novelty around the every corner in beautiful Boston.
My sweet husband, Tom, and I celebrated a very special anniversary this year. To further commemorate our years together we decided to visit gorgeous Cape Cod. We had never been to the northeast coast together, so we researched and planned, delighting in every discovery.
Flying into Boston's Logan airport we spent the first two days with our son, Ted, who had recently moved to Boston. I will reveal our Boston fun in another article.
Perfect Timing
We headed down to the Cape on Monday afternoon about 2:00 p.m., thus avoiding rush hour traffic. In addition, we read that the summer weekend traffic is a snail's pace, which we, of course, wanted to avoid.
Plymouth Rock
To break up our trip, we stopped off to see the famed Plymouth Rock. It's a beautiful area, with a replica of the Mayflower in the harbor. The rock itself is a bit underwhelming. The park ranger explained that people have been chipping away at it for centuries, in order to have a bit of the rock in their homes. So, they have erected quite an impressive barricade to prevent people from defacing it.
Down the road we saw an exit to Plimouth Plantation. We chose not to stop, since we were anxious to get to Cape Cod. However, we've heard that it's a charming replica of the original Plymouth (Plimouth?) settlement. People dress in authentic costumes and work their professions: blacksmithing, baking bread, etc. Maybe next time.
Hyannis, the perfect base to explore the whole Cape.
Accomodations
We hit the jackpot when Tom's discovery, The Green Mountain Inn, proved to be a perfect and lovely base to launch our exploration. In addition to the delicious breakfasts they served, Nick and Mike, our hosts, gave us invaluable information to add to what we had researched. Thoroughly rested and refreshed, we were on our way.
Falmouth and Bristol Beach
Instead of dashing off to the islands, the first day we drove down to the coast to explore one of the many beaches on the Cape. It was beautiful, but the water, even in August, was a bit chilly.
For lunch we scored at the British Beer Company located adjacent to the beach. (It's actually the only restaurant there, but the creamy clam chowder came in second place in all of the chowders we sampled.)
Around the Sound
We decided that since we only had a short time in Cape Cod that we would take advantage of Hy-Line Ferries' offer of both Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket in one day.
For $79 each the hi-speed ferry took us to Martha's Vineyard, then to Nantucket and then back to Hyannis on the regular ferry. We had about five hours on each island. Of course, there are daily trips to each island if you want to spend the day at one or the other.
Click here for Hy-Line's Web Site
Martha's Vineyard
Our host, Nick, told us that we should consider buying an all-day hop on/hop off bus pass. We saw Oak Bluffs, Edgartown and Vineyard Haven and all they had to offer. Lots of shops, lots of eateries. Each village boasts its own identity. But truly, they all looked pretty similar. We took the time to stroll back streets and talk to locals. We saw a few sights we otherwise wouldn't have, if it were not for my gregarious sweetheart. What a great way to see the island!
Nantucket
The quaint community of Nantucket is more centralized. Hydrangeas dress up the ubiquitous weather-beaten cedar shake Cape Cod cottages everywhere we looked. We were going to take a bus to one of the beaches, but it was pretty isolated, so we opted to stay in town. Again, we spent our time exploring the back streets of town, talking to locals.
The best chowder.
Right in the middle of the square on Nantucket is a restaurant named The Tavern. After tasting several versions of clam chowder (chowda) from Boston and up to Provincetown at the tip of Cape Cod, The Tavern's unbelievably creamy and chunky chowda wins. Hands down.
Provincetown
This lovely, eclectic town at the tip of Cape Cod has a sweeping beach right in town. On the day we were visiting, there was limited humidity (a relief from the rest of the Cape) and gentle breezes. We tried the famous Lobster Pot for lunch after asking a local where to eat. We were disappointed in both the clam chowda and the lobster roll. Not much flavor in either. We decided to take the scenic route back to Hyannis.
Chatham
Yet another picturesque town with several shopping opportunities, we rolled into town and ducked into a vintage Ben Franklin store just as the skies opened up. We were charmed perusing the store as we reminisced, while we waited out the downpour. Soon, though, we strolled around town, popping in and out of cute stores. We abandoned that sweet village, though, as the rain returned. A fierce storm doused us as we tried to make our way back to Hyannis. Several inches flooded the village streets, so we were forced to return to the highway. Fortunately, the rain abated by the time we got into Hyannis.
Hyannis
This town is the commercial center for Cape Cod. Two major ferry lines depart from Hyannis. Both sides of Main Street are a souvenir shopper's paradise. In addition, almost any type of restaurant that you would like is sprinkled among the colorful shops. We decided to stick with The British Beer Company, which we discovered was a chain. Didn't matter. Almost everything we tried was delicious! (Stay away from the nachos. They're pretty, but have little flavor.)
There was a pretty beach just down the street from our inn, just perfect for relaxing.
Our whirlwind Cape Cod Caper satisfied our desire to see it all. Who knows when we'll return, but it was definitely a sweet way to celebrate our happiness together.
Last week we heard on 9News that Trail Ridge Road, Colorado the highest continual paved road in the U.S. was open! But, they cautioned that that there may be a few icy spots. What are a few icy spots to experienced Colorado drivers? Since we had never seen the road after the such a banner snow year, we decided to head out and make a day of it.
From Fort Collins, it takes about an hour to reach Estes Park, a cute mountain town nestled in a stunningly gorgeous valley. It is the perfect place to get out make a pit stop and stretch your legs. This time we did not linger in Estes; we wanted to get up to Trail Ridge before the traffic.
Rocky Mountain National Park Entrance Fees
In the past we have always opted to pay the $20 for a 7-day pass.
But this year we have decided to take advantage of the many gems that Rocky Mountain National Park has to offer by buying a season pass. it is $40.
If you want to buy a pass for ALL of the U.S. National Parks the pass costs $80 for the season.
Once you reach age 65, you will be allowed to enter any national park, and the guests who ride with you, free of charge!
When we traveled above the famous Horseshoe Park that is the ultimate elk-viewing area in the fall, we encountered the mega snowbanks that we heard about.
Now to some fabulous wildlife sightings.
Traveling down the mountain toward Grand Lake this time we were blessed with sharing our space with some majestic moose. As with elk, you are always cautioned not to get too close. I used the zoom on my camera to get this close.
I didn't want to disturb the moose lunch.
Walt Disney World Magic
This year our daughter sent us on a fabulous Walt Disney World trip for our anniversary. At first, I thought, "What? Visiting the Magic Kingdom with no kids in tow?" And then I thought, "The chance to go to the Magic Kingdom and Epcot Center WITH NO KIDS IN TOW!" This will be an opportunity to travel back in time and act as though we are teenagers again. There will be no crying, no whining, and no worries; we will just do what we want, when we want to. A perfect romantic anniversary trip.
Here are some tips:
Before you go:
Money
-Set an approximate budget. this seems to be common sense, but there are many temptations that can pull at your resolve. Disney can be expensive.
Lodging
-Research lodging that fits within your comfort zone and budget. We chose Floridays Resort and Suites. The accommodations are apartments as opposed merely hotel rooms. The resort is within walking distance to a grocery store, so we can stock up on snacks and drinks (which are pricey in all the parks). They also shuttle patrons to and from all the parks or free.
Entrance Fees and Hopper Pass
-Decide which day you will visit each theme park or buy a "Hopper" pass. A Hopper pass is an additional cost to the admission ticket, but you will have unlimited travel between the parks.
Restaurants
-Research the restaurants in the parks. Up to 120 days before you visit, make reservations to avoid standing in line for possibly hours or missing out entirely.
After our glorious trip, here's what we learned:
Shuttles
-If you stay off property and the resort has a shuttle to Disney to Disney theme parks, find out how many times per day you can catch it.
-The International Villages in Epcot do not open until 11 a.m. Plan to ride both Soarin' and TestTrack and other rides in the morning.
FastPass
-Visit a FastPass kiosk (there are several) first thing after you enter the park. Each person in your party will have an opportunity to make an appointment to ride 3 popular rides for everyone in their party. So, each person can choose a different set of three rides, so that none of you need to wait in a long line. You will need some sort of method to write down your appointments; they do not issue a slip of paper. Or, you can take a picture of your time slots with your phone or camera. In addition, you have an hour after your appointment to make it to your ride. Don't lose your Disney card; you will need to scan it each time you use the FastPass.
Even though we went in late February, which would seem like a "slow" time, it was definitely worth it to take the time to get FastPass appointments.
Coffee
If you go to the Magic Kingdom and you don't prefer Starbucks, we found delicious coffee at Sleepy Hollow in Liberty Square with just a short wait.
Lunch and Dinner in France, Epcot Center
Our lunch at Les Halles Boulangerie and Patisserie was fabulous. The delectable sandwich on freshly made bread exploded with fresh flavors. And our decadent dessert was a work of layered chocolate and raspberry art.
Due to our foresight in making a reservation for dinner at Chefs de France, we were immediately escorted to our table in a lovely dining room. I had the luscious braised ribs which melted in my mouth. Tom had a filet mignon that was perfectly cooked and tender. Our waiter charmed us with his French accent. The whole experience made us feel as though we were transported back to France during this divine meal.
Above all, revel in the magic of Walt Disney World. Transport yourself back to a simpler, child-like wonder as you gaze up at the spires of Cinderella's castle, scream around the corners of each roller coaster and fly into each new adventure. Time and time again you'll be reminded that Walt Disney has created "The Happiest Place on Earth".
I must say that we are spoiled in Colorado with such gorgeous scenery. So spoiled, in fact, that we often fail to travel to areas that are not on the beaten path, because, why? When there is an incredible vista, right around every corner, we become complacent and tend to stay in our own backyards.
However, since most of our family had not been skiing/riding in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, we decided to spend our Christmas up there--which is a 4-5 hour, dicey drive in the snowy weather.
Lunch in Walden, Colorado
The best place that we have found to eat on the way up to Steamboat, if you are traveling up the Poudre Canyon, is at the Antlers Inn on 460 Main Street in Walden. You can't miss it. The hotel has been lovingly restored and the food inside in the River Rock Cafe is delicious.
Accommodations
Many sites in Steamboat Springs require more than one day stay. The condo complex we chose was Eagle Ridge, just a brief free shuttle away from the ski area. Eagle Ridge is gorgeous, offering free coffee, hot chocolate and donuts in the lobby. They also have ski/snowboard lockers just off the lobby, so that patrons do not need to lug their equipment up to their apartments. A friendly concierge is waiting to answer any question and provide useful tips. Eagle Ridge boasts a large, heated pool, with three whirlpool spas. Delicious, after a hard ski day.
The Slopes
Steamboat is perfect for expert skiers and riders. I wouldn't recommend being up on the mountain for the first run, unless the temperature is between 20-30 degrees. On the day we scheduled it had just snowed several inches, and the temperature was -9F. Even though I had anticipated the cold and my body was warm, the slopes were not very groomed and my goggles iced up. I consider myself a decent skier, but on this day, I felt like I was just trying to survive the mountain.
Our daughter and son rocked the "chutes" high up on the mountain later in the day and loved it.
I prefer Keystone, Copper Mountain and Winter Park.
Overall, we had a good time in Steamboat. Check out our other side trips and activities below:
Near Steamboat Springs, Colorado
Strawberry Park Hot Springs is nestled in an obscure, sweet valley about seven miles outside of Steamboat Springs, Colorado.
It is open all year round. But, be advised, from November 1st through May 1st, the last two miles is a 4-wheel drive unpaved, snowy/icy road. If your car has chains, they do allow you to travel down the road if you don't have a 4-wheel drive. If you don't want to mess with trying to find your way, there are shuttles charging $40 for adults either from your door or from downtown Steamboat. Teens are $30 and kids 6-12 are $15. Kids under 5 are free.
Once you arrive at Strawberry Park, the admission is $10 for adults, $7 for teens and $5 for kids. Cash only.
There is a short hike down a trail...
and then up to the bridge that suspends over the water. A warmed cabin is available for changing. Or, closer to the actual pools, they offer a teepee and a stone structure for patrons to duck into.
Keep in mind this is an au natural place, so there is no separation for men and women. And, watch out for the ice that forms on the path and stairs.
In addition, clothing is optional at night. And, believe me; people take advantage of this "European style" of bathing.
But, the water is divine. The first pool is pretty hot; the lower one is more tolerable for my taste. There is also a cold pool, if you are a polar bear. My daughter dared my son to jump into the cold pool. I told him to reconsider; I was pretty sure I was not going to rescue him if he had a heart attack. He jumped in anyway, and quick as a wink, right back into the hot spring pool. Thank goodness I did not have to provide rescue maneuvers.
Also, in the winter, especially, the steam swirls, shrouding the whole area, making patrons feel like they are in a fairy land. It's a perfect place to soak those troubles away. Just make sure you bring your own towel.
The Flight to Paradise
Prepare for a long flight if you are flying from Denver or farther west, one that takes all day or all night. Even if you are flying from Miami, it is a 2 and a half hour flight. Take an inflatable pillow, some snacks, a book, magazine, or mobile device and settle in.
When we arrived in St. Thomas it was 8:45 p.m. We booked our rental car online. Unfortunately, there was not a desk for that particular rental car company in the airport; it was off-site (no indication of that when we booked it). No problem, right? Most of the time we just call them and someone comes to pick us up. After speaking with other rental car company associates, they said that company was closed for the evening. They close at 5 or 6 pm, according to their whim. Fortunately, we caught the last taxi van that night to our fabulous resort. Cost: $12/ person one way.
Ted welcomed us to this gorgeous resort completely decorated with a Murano glass chandelier and a gigantic fresh tropical arrangement in the open air foyer.
This resort seems to have it all:
Three pools including an infinity pool and a swim up bar,
Large hot tub, the size of many swimming pools,
6 restaurants and bars,
3 convenience shops,
Jewelry shops,
Workout room,
Kids' room and programs,
Adventure desk,
Boat shuttle to town,
Luxury spa,
Water sports equipment for guests to use,
Private white sand beach,
Convention rooms,
Gorgeous views of the Caribbean,
and one of the most comfortable rooms I have ever stayed in.
Passport Alert!
Before we traveled to St. Thomas, which is a US Virgin Island, we decided that we wanted to visit St. John, another US Virgin Island and Virgin Gorda, a British Virgin Island. Even though you do not need a passport to visit St. Thomas or St. John, to visit Virgin Gorda, you must bring a valid passport.
The Baths at Virgin Gorda, BVI
There are only two days that the ferry runs between St. Thomas and Virgin Gorda. So, before we could even do much sightseeing on St. Thomas, our group decided that we should take advantage of the chance to go to and experience The Baths.
After retrieving our car from the crazy car rental company the previous day, we jumped up at the break of dawn to catch the ferry to Virgin Gorda. You can take the ferry from Charlotte Amalie (10- 15 minute drive from Marriott Frenchman's Reef), or the shorter ferry trip is to drive to Red Hook, about a 20 minute drive from the Marriott.
The ferry costs $80 round trip, which you can pay for using cash or a credit card. Plus, the island charges a $15 cash (no credit card) per person departure fee for leaving the British Virgin Islands. There is an ATM near the dock in case you forgot to bring cash. Plan on about two hours each way from Red Hook (because you'll have to go through Customs), longer from Charlotte Amalie.
There is only one round trip on Thursday and one on Sunday, departing at 8:00 am and leaving Virgin Gorda at 3:00 pm. It is enough time to explore the Baths, but just. For more information about ferry schedules, click on this site: http://www.vinow.com/general_usvi/interisland_ferry/
When you get to the island, arrange for a taxi driver (several are waiting for the ferry to dock) to take you the mile and a half or so to the Baths and to pick you up at 2:20 pm to get you back to the harbor for the required half hour before departure. Agree on a price. You do not pay for the taxi ride up front (and they do not expect it). This insures that the same one will pick you up. The taxi drivers are very gregarious, and they all seem to charge about the same price. Again, make sure you have cash.
Once you get to the entrance of the Baths, there are two paths; they both lead to pristine white beaches. The one to the right leads to the snack shack, lockers and bathrooms. The other way, to Devil's Bay (feels like a misnomer because the beach looks angelic!) is all powdered sugar sand beach with no extra amenities.
At the bottom of either path you will see huge boulders with gorgeous warm (hence the name) water gently eddying around them. The water is not too deep for people five feet and taller. We wore water socks, because there are places to climb up on the rocks. You'll feel like a pirate scrambling up on the rocks, climbing down ladders, over bridges and reveling in this respite from the heat of the sun. No matter which path you choose, you will boil out of the rocks onto a gorgeous beach. It's difficult to take a towel with you and keep it dry as you navigate through the rocks. You may want to lock it up, or take your chances leaving it on the beach.
Back to St. Thomas
The cerulean, clear water and the delectable seafood are the major stars on this lovely island (along with the Marriott Frenchman's Reef!). Since we decided to go during the slow season, there were no crowds and limited traffic. We luxuriated in the crystal clear turquoise calm, balmy waters that are the Carribbean's signature. In addition, the sugar soft sand remains a selling point.
Since it is tropical, plan on high humidity and high temps. We found out that for the most part the island is casual and that we wore clothes that dried quickly almost exclusively. Small rain showers happen quite frequently, so we were prepared to either continue swimming or weather them, knowing that we would dry off quickly. Don't bother with an umbrella or curlers. You won't need either. I usually curl my hair with electric hot rollers every day, but I gave up in all that humidity. My hair is naturally straight, so I just braided it or put it up into a ponytail when the heat got too intense (which was every day in the August tropical sun).
Amazing Fruits de Mer
The seafood on the island is delicious, for the most part. The prices are similar to what people pay in New York City, from what I hear. So, a little more than what we are used to.
During our trip became connoisseurs of coconut shrimp: Aqua Terra at the Marriott Frenchman's Reef had the best that we tasted, with Fish Tales at Red Hook coming in with a close second.
Mim's at Bolongo Bay scored points with everyone in our party. Natalie and I shared the King Crab legs. Succulent, and they stay hot throughout our meal. I still don't know how they managed that. The Grouper Dijonnaise melted with creamy delicious in my mouth when I tried Teddy's.
The Wednesday night buffet at Coco Joe's on the Morningstar Beach brimmed with Prime Rib, lobster, various seafood, pasta, salads, and gorgeous desserts. It's a treat to eat right next to the white beach with the water literally a few steps away. And sweet Sarah, the manager, took care of us like we were family.
Overall, our favorite meal was we found right under our noses at the Aqua Terra right in the Frenchman's Reef resort. Tom had a succulent, fresh catch of the day Snapper with perfectly prepared garlic mashed potatoes. And I decided to try the Skirt Steak with Chimichurri sauce which was highly recommended to me. I was worried, though, since I have had dry, tough skirt steak in the past. Much to my delight, it was grilled to perfection and the spicy chimichurri sauce was the perfect complement. The gorgeous, romantic view and the delicious food capped off our perfect week.
Snorkeling and Other Fun Water Sports
For the most part when we were in the islands, we played on, in and beside the water. One afternoon, we caught The Cat, a party catamaran, right from the Frenchman's Reef dock. The crew makes the trip safe and fun and provides all of the snorkeling equipment you'll need. On our trip to Buck Island, clearly visible from Frenchman's Reef, we swam with huge turtles, saw "Finding Nemo" type schools of colorful fish and a Manta Ray undulating in the calm surf. Once we were back on the sailboat, the crew had snacks, non-alcoholic drinks and as much of the ubiquitous island rum punch anyone wanted. They wanted everyone to be happy. And we were.
Wandering in Old Charlotte Amalie
Part of the allure of different locales is the architecture and what might lie within. Ok, Ok, I am talking about shopping, but it's even better when the wandering takes me in and out of cool alleyways and back streets amid antebellum and earlier structures. Diamond stores abound down in the old town as well as the shopping mall right where the cruise ships dock. But if you take the time to wander down the alleyways, you will find unusual gems beyond the cliche. Our paricular favorite was a shop that catered to the local handmade artisan jewelry, clothing and art. We even found a farmer with his produce on the back of his pickup, farmer's market style, and bought some fresh cinnamon sticks (shaved bark), which were still pliable. We were even brave enough to try a genip fruit, which looks like a small lime. The inside was a little gooey and citrusy. Something I might need to experience more to get used to.
But, that's what makes travel so exciting: being willing to step outside the thoroughfares and into a whole new experience.
Winter Hiking in the Colorado Mountains
Ok, I'll admit it. I'm a wimp when it comes to braving harsh conditions. I know how to bundle up; I just don't want to go to all that effort if the reward is not that apparent.
But sometimes the reward is the journey.
So, last weekend my sweet husband, Tom, and I decided that we would take advantage of the promised sunshine, brave winter and trek up a relatively easy trail. After all, we knew we could abandon our plans if the conditions were too harsh.
That's the key: be flexible.
Getting Ready
We always make sure that we drink plenty of water before traveling up to the high country. (They also recommend taking a couple ibuprophen, especially if you're not used to high altitude.) We filled our water bottles and stocked a cooler. Our snacks were a healthy form of granola bar. A variety of jackets, gloves, hats and boots safeguarded us against the changing weather. I packed a small backpack, because I didn't want to carry anything too heavy. I tucked my camera and my phone into the backpack. Make sure you have shades! Our Colorado sun is fierce. Since Tom had already been there, we didn't need a map. The car was gassed up; we were ready to jet.
The Spot
For this trip we chose the Twin Peaks Trail just outside of Estes Park off Highway 7. It's across the road from Lily Lake (which has restroom facilities next to it). Parking is free both at Lily Lake and at the base of the Twin Peaks Trail. In the summer, this trail is pretty popular, so arrive early to ensure a parking place.
Clothing
We decide to be prepared for any weather, because mountain weather is often unpredictable. When we arrived, we discovered that the snow was not deep, so we only needed our short boots. I did wear my ski pants over my jeans, my down jacket with a hood, and my Turtle Fur headband. Just in case. I don't like to be cold. My hands were a little cold at first, because I wore only my driving gloves, not my down mittens. As we climbed, however, my hands and the rest of me warmed up considerably.
The Trek
There is a sign at the trailhead that indicates that the trail is 3.7 miles. However, if you park at the base, you will walk about a half mile up to the trailhead. The trail itself is mostly a steady climb up hill in a lovely forest. The forest kept us sheltered from the wind. Along the way you will see glimpses of other mountain peaks. About half way up
the trail there is a place that people can stop and admire a rockin' view of Long's Peak, a close by 14er. We stopped, drank more water (keep hydrated!), and ate our granola bars, wishing we had brought something else! As you can see, I shed my down jacket. That hike got my blood pumpin'.
Since my husband is so sweet, that is as far as we went that day. He knows that I have an injured toe, so 2 miles each way is probably pushing it. (He was right. My toe was screaming about halfway down.) The way up took about two hours and we made it down in about 45 minutes.
Tom, my daughter Natalie and her friend Kat hiked the whole way up to Twin Peaks last summer. According to him, there is a lovely meadow about another mile up from where we stopped. From there they climbed up a tricky boulder field to the top. It sounds fun. Too bad my bad toe would protest.
When we got down, we were starving, so Tom took me to lunch at The Other Side Restaurant in Estes Park. It was delicious! Check out my review on the Food page.
A perfect frosting for our sweet day.
Escape to Key West
Since Valentine's Day takes place in the deep cave of winter, why not plan to bask in the glow of a sunny Key West getaway?
Planning
If you have more than a weekend for your trip, why not fly into Fort Lauderdale, Florida? It's about $200 cheaper to fly there. True, you'll probably have to spend the night, but you can enjoy all of the Intercoastal charms and stunning white beaches that they have to offer.
Driving
Then you can take off south to drive the unique Highway 1 that seemingly floats over the turquoise surf. The drive is long-about 4-5 hours, but it's fun to experience all of the different Keys along the way. Once in Key West, try to stay on the east side of Key West, opposite from Mallory Square touristy noise and congestion. We stayed in the gorgeous and beautifully equipped Santa Maria Suites, which was two blocks from east end of the famous shopping and restaurant Duval Street.
Rent Bikes
We found a place to rent bikes kitty-corner from our suite. A&M Rentals charged 15 dollars per bike for a 24-hour period. The bikes came with locks, and they suggested that we use them. They also came equipped with handy baskets to tote all of your Key West memorabilia. Since downtown can be very busy, the bikes were a perfect solution to avoid trying to find parking.
Southernmost Point
Once you're done shopping or indulging, head down to the end of Duval Street to Mallory Square. After taking your picture commemorating the fact that you visited the Southernmost Spot in the US, find a seat next to the water to gaze at the gorgeous sunset as it unfolds. It's a pure amber and gold sunset with a sprinkling of romantic sailboats, just to break up the horizon. Key West is very proud of their sunsets. And, just because you're there, you'll revel in the spirit of the nightly event.
The Best Breakfast
It wasn't on the main drag, but Camille's was definitely a find. Kitschy and cute in its decor, the breakfast we ordered certainly lived up to all of the rave reviews. My Croissant Benedict simply was the best I've ever tasted.
Reminiscent of our trip to Cancun, the beaches that surround Key West are sugar soft and as white as any Caribbean setting. The Santa Maria Suites (a block away) shared access to this beach with The Reach which is a Waldorf Astoria Hotel and Resort.
Hammocks abound, strung between palm trees, inviting you to slow down, cuddle up, and get to know each other all over again.
Biking in the Colorado High Country
Frisco to Breckenridge
A couple months ago, I told my sweetie that I was going to have a day off on Friday, October 19. I asked him to see whether he could take a day off as well, so that we could try to take advantage of some gorgeous mountain autumn. He got busy and requested the day off. We were in business. The dilemma now was trying to decide among the myriad of opportunities in the Colorado high country.
One prospect that has always intrigued us is to bike along the famous Frisco-Breckenridge trail. It was even on my husband's "bucket list". Since the bright day proved the weatherperson's prediction, and since we have continued our healthy regimen, we decided to bolt for the mountains. After "rush hour" of course.
The mountain tops glittered with a frosting of snow, as the rays of sunshine gleamed the already cerulean sky. Our journey, on a Friday, zipped along due to limited traffic, a welcome boon. We eagerly surveyed the landscape for the beginning of the trail at the edge of Frisco. However, as we found out on the way back, it is somewhat hidden. So, we decided to start our bike trip in Breckenridge.
Motherloaded
OK, I admit it. I have changed from what I used to be. I'm hungry now. When I was in my teens and twenties, I did not eat very much. But now, I have changed my habits, revved up my metabolism and really get hungry every four hours or so. I even get a little cranky if I don't eat, as my husband has discovered. So, wisely, he said, "We should have lunch before we rent the bikes."
A couple years ago we had lunch at a restaurant in downtown Breckenridge that had delicious homemade mac and cheese. I figured that I would be burning lots of calories later, enough to warrant such an indulgence. We had to try to find it because I had forgotten the name of restaurant. I knew what it looked like; pretty soon, we stumbled upon it right on Main Street: Motherloaded.
Sure enough, they had my luscious mac and cheese. (I ordered a side order of it; don't want to go too crazy.) Tom ordered "White Castle" sliders with garlic mashed potatoes. He was very sweet to offer me a taste of both. Just as delicious as the mac and cheese!
Bike Rental and We're Off
Fortified, we set off to rent bikes at Avalanche Sports located at 315 N. Main in Breckenridge, which is right next to the trail. For $20 per bike for 4 hours or less we got really comfortable modern bikes. The wind was whipping, so even though it was a nice day, we donned our light jackets, scarves and put our gloves and hats in our backpack. We threw a bottle of water in as well, because it is always smart to stay hydrated, especially at high altitude.
Head Wind
From Breckenridge the smooth, paved trail winds up and down under the streets until it meanders along the Blue River. It is also right next to the highway, so you will never feel lost. The distance from Breckenridge to Frisco is 9 miles. We have both been fighting off a cold, so we decided to ride as far as the Summit High School, which is a little over half way to Frisco. The trek felt pretty easy, but we has a fairly strong head wind, so we were looking forward to the wind helping push us on our way back. Up the hill, as it turns out. Uphill the whole way back.
Breckenridge is Higher than Frisco-Duh!
The funny thing about wind is that it blows when it wants to. So, unfortunately it died down right before we turned around. We got no help from Mr. Wind as we taxed our muscles, pedaling up the hill back up to Breckenridge. There are some leveled out areas so that you can catch your breath, so it is a workout, but doable.
We did pretty well. I had to stop and walk my bike just a couple times on steep hills. But we made it-about 11 miles round trip-drinking in all of the sweet scenery that Colorado is famous for.
When we got back and turned in our bikes, our legs felt noodly, so we walked around the beautifully unique town of Breckenridge, even finding a couple Christmas presents. Deciding not to press our luck, we returned to Motherloaded for delicious coffee (?!) and a snack. Once again we indulged and ordered Not'Chos made with homemade potato chips instead of corn chips, piled high with all of the great nacho toppings.
Heading down the mountain, we were secure in the fact that we were leaving at the perfect time to avoid Denver's rush hour. Tom did want to get down the mountain before dark, but we timed it so well that we were rewarded with one of Colorado's legendary sunsets. A perfect finale for a perfect day.
Not the Michigan of My Youth
The sheer beauty of Michigan sometimes gets overshadowed by economic and big-city issues. Growing up in Ann Arbor, a mile from the Big House (the famous University of Michigan stadium), I was somewhat sheltered from both of those concerns, since Ann Arbor is a gorgeous, self-sufficient city and we rarely felt the pull to venture into nearby Detroit. Indeed, with several lakes in the vicinity, there were also many picnicking and swimming day trips that we looked forward to, to escape the infamous summer heat.
So, the occasion to travel the 4-plus hours "Up North" for mini vacations happened only three times before I was 20. And, while I remembered some of the beauty, I was eager to experience "Pure Michigan" as an adult who has a partnership in making the "stopping along the road" decisions.Tom and I have decided to "add on" to family reunions by incorporating an extended vacation, complementing the joy of visiting with cherished sisters, aunts, uncles, and cousins. After big fun with my mom's side of the family, (delicious food, splashing in the pool, volleyball tournament, joking, teasing, reminiscing, catching up, and snapping pics), we headed up north on a sight-seeing adventure up the interior of the Michigan Mitten. Our first ultimate destination was Mackinaw City with anticipation of spending the next day on the storied Mackinac Island.
We bought tickets for the ferry ride over to the island for a reduced rate (20 dollars per person, round-trip), right at our hotel. The ferries are actually large speed boats with two levels: open air and a lower level. We asked about reserving a bike to explore the island, but our concierge said that we didn't have to worry about making sure we were able to get a bike to rent. He was right.
The next day we were early enough to be able to park (for free!) in the lot next to the ferry dock. (If you get there before 10 am, there should be enough spaces. Otherwise, you are directed to park in another lot in town and they shuttle you back to the dock-also for free.) After passing under Mackinac Bridge, the famous "longest suspension bridge in North America", the island loomed with another famous attraction sprawled on the landscape: The Grand Hotel. We vowed to check that out later in the day. Upon disembarking, we found many bicycle shops along their main street. Each one had countless bikes to rent. They are all about the same rate: 5-8 dollars per hour or 39 dollars per day. The good part about our rental shop is that you don't have to decide how long you want the bike at the time you rent; they give you the lowest rate when you return the bike. We were off!
The route we chose was the relatively flat paved trail 8 miles around the perimeter of the island, along the soft, sandy beach. We loved our almost continual views of magnificent Lake Huron. About half way a refreshment stand beckoned to us nestled snug in the woods. With plenty of picnic tables scattered around it was perfect for a brief rest as we savored our ice cream cones. The more challenging interior "mountain bike" trails (not paved) crisscrossed the island, also led travelers past this forest oasis.
When we rolled back into town, we headed up the hill to check out the famed Grand Hotel. I recently read about the Grand Hotel's "Best Porch in America" and wanted to relax in one of their perfect rocking chairs overlooking Lakes Michigan and Huron. The hotel is so special that they actually charge 10 dollars (good all day) to come in, shop if you like in their boutiques, buy lunch, snacks, or drinks and relax on the porch. Tom actually surprised me by taking me to lunch in the Grand Dining Room. For that pleasure it costs 40 dollars per person for the sumptuous buffet, the 10 dollar admission fee included.
And what a buffet! Almost anything anyone would want to eat, with glittering salads, appetizers, carving stations and delicious sides. They even offered pate, steamed mussels, and for dessert individually crafted eclairs, Napoleons, cream puffs just to name a few of the mesmerizing choices. The Michigan cherry pie was my favorite. After this fabulous lunch we relaxed on the porch, reveling in the panoramic views. Bliss!
Later, we dropped off our bikes (paid for 3 hours) and strolled the main street. Mackinac Island is known for its fudge and there are 362 fudge shops in town (not really). One hotel on the main street, the Murray Hotel, was handing out free tastes of their fudge, touting it as the creamiest and tastiest. They are right! We hurried in and
tasted more flavors. My favorite was the Caramel Turtle Fudge and bought a pound of it. They were gracious enough to cut it in half and package the two pieces in separate gift boxes. I was very impressed and delighted. While one is indeed a gift, I have to admit that we have dipped into the other one, feeling quite indulgent!
Our perfect day was capped off with a saunter around charming Mackinaw City (the shops are open until 10 PM) once we got ferried back to the mainland. Traverse City and Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes beckoned to us, so reluctantly we headed back to our hotel looking forward to more of Pure Michigan.
The Eiffel Tower
It seems that I can forgive Paris for anything. What I complain about while visiting Oregon, I patiently endure in Paris. It was raining when we landed at Charles de Gaulle airport, not the best welcome sign. However, my sweet Tom's sunny personality made our cabbie comfortable and actually smile, dispelling the French preconceived "obnoxious American" ideas. We rolled up to our hotel, Garden Elysee, a stately facade tucked back on a narrow Rue St. Didier, about 20 minutes later. Passing through a gate, we encountered a lovely fairy garden with the entrance to our hotel flanked by flowering trees and vines. By then it had stopped raining. There's our welcome sign.
It is recommended that people should get right to the business of sight-seeing, and not succumb to the weariness of a trans-continental flight. No matter how tired you might feel. So, OK, we decided to take their advice and visit one attraction that day. What an attraction!
The Eiffel Tower seems like a cliche, but once you go, you get it. We had to go to the top. There are three levels of observation. People may climb to two of them. The third must be reached by elevator. Since Tom hates standing in line, (and there were about 843,652 people in line--not really--), we decided to charge up to the first level. For that privilege, they charged us 4 euros. (At the time we visited Paris, for adults riding the elevator to that level it costs 4.5 euros, 7.80 euros to reach the second level and 11.50 euros (total) to ride all the way to the top.) You may save a little money and time by climbing the stairs, but be warned: there are 360 steps to the first level. We thought, "Hey, no problem,
we've just done months on the elliptical machine to prepare for this trip." It really doesn't look that difficult. But yikes. Don't get me wrong; it was fun. Higher and higher we climbed, eager at first and then age and our fitness level slowed us as younger souls scampered up ahead of us. It felt quite surreal to be ensconced in a larger than life erector set. However, despite the long lines for the next elevator, my husband vetoed the idea of climbing higher. "Not only no, but heck no." I was really grateful he did, because there are 359 steps to the second level. So, we set off to try to purchase tickets to the next two levels.
There are no ticket offices once you reach the first and second levels. There are touch screen automated ticket machines, which can be a little confusing, so try to be patient. Patience is also needed while waiting in the seemingly interminable lines to enter the elevators. My husband, Tom, entertained our fellow travelers with funny quips, so the wait didn't seem as long. Also, the views are definitely worth it.
It was overcast, but not rainy when ventured up the tower. However, we drank in all of the gorgeous scenery laid out at the feet of this monumental structure. There are maps of attractions on the walls, so that when you go outside on the observation deck, you can identify what you are seeing. Gazing down over the sculptured lawn, the glittering domes and the River Seine snaking through the city, I experienced a sense of grandeur. This city totally captivated me. Next time I think I will try to ascend at night to truly experience the City of Lights.
Since the waits are long, they do provide rest rooms on each level. Also, you might want to visit the gift shop. The offerings are pricey, but I now regret not purchasing some memento of our classic climb. It remains one of my favorite activities. You can save money by purchasing little Eiffel Towers and other trinkets from the street vendors below, if you choose.
Europe is a continent of walkers, so we decided to join in, for the most part. Due to our Eiffel climb, my calf muscles were killing me. So, we decided to forgo other towers in the subsequent days because of the burn. Too bad. Next time I'll make sure I'm better prepared.
The views from the Eiffel Tower whispered to us to investigate all that Paris has to offer. It was a bonus to visit this attraction first to visually map out our itinerary. With the Grand Lady spread out before us, how could we help but fall in love?
Making Guests Feel Spoiled
We just got back from a trip to Dallas to see my sweet sister-in-law and her family. Boy did we ever feel pampered!
After finding our way in and out along the life-sized Mousetrap game that is the Dallas highway system (nope, even the GPS was confused!), we rolled up to Donna's beautiful house in Flower Mound, Texas. Knowing that we would not have had dinner, she put out a dazzling display including a jewel-toned fruit tray, bowtie pasta salad, sauteed shrimp with couscous and crusty sourdough bread. To top it all off, she had made a luscious lemon tart for dessert, knowing my husband's penchant for lemon pie.
She lit the fire in the fireplace as we visited in the now beautifully cozy room. We brought her some gifts, but she got us some as well. (What? I thought the guests were the ones who were supposed to bring hostess gifts.) When we were ready to sleep, she gave us her master suite to us, albeit with much protesting from us, and we luxuriated in her fluffy pillow top bed.
She even told us ahead of time that not to bring lotion and shampoo, assuring us that she would provide all of that for us. Not only did she provide it, but all of our toiletries were display in a cool wrought iron basket rack. She even provided slippers and lotion for my feet.
In the morning she had our favorite coffee (Simply Smooth Folgers) and our favorite coffee cream (Fat Free Hazelnut Coffeemate) waiting for us. When we deferred to her knowledge of what she'd like to show us in the Dallas area, she carted us all over. Remembering that I love to shop, she took us to a sweet town called Grapevine that boasts many specialty shops that we visited. The coffee shops and cafes looked inviting as well, but we were on a mission. Plus, the pouring rain dampered our strolling somewhat; we were ready to move the festivities inside. I wanted to see the famous shopping mecca the Galleria. It sure lived up to its hype. It rose to quite an impression with its three stories. The mezzanine levels look down upon an ice skating rink below. After running into our favorite store Macy's http://www.macys.com/ she treated us to a delicious lunch at The Grill on the Alley http://thegrill.com/locations/the-grill-on-the-alley-dallas in the famous Galleria shopping mall. The ambiance and the service were superior. In addition, it was the best chicken pot pie I have ever eaten!
On Sunday her cute kids and their cute kids came over to yet another beautiful spread, including, scrambled eggs, waffles from scratch, French toast, her signature gorgeous fruit tray, and freshly squeezed orange juice. I
contributed my homemade Cream Cheese Filled Pastry, just to try to earn my keep. My husband fixed a couple things that she needed done while we were flurrying around the kitchen, just to try to help as well. At brunch we were entertained by our lively great-niece, a 4-year-old princess, who regaled us with story after story. Her smiley one-year-old brother let her do all the talking.
My husband and his sister would probably be just as content snacking for the rest of the day, but I was driven to find some real-down home Southern cookin'. Donna asked me what I'd like, so I told her anything from fried chicken, ribs, or brisket. She thought about it and settled on a place called Babe's Chicken Dinner House http://www.babeschicken.com
Glittering City By the Bay
San Francisco was on my bucket list even in my 20s. I felt that if I could just travel to San Francisco, I could die happy. It just so happened that my sweet husband took me to San Francisco for our honeymoon. I was looking for romance; his goal was to go to Alcatraz. On our honeymoon? All right... Just as I thought, it was pretty intense, especially when we agreed to be locked in a solitary confinement cell (WHAT?) with five other crazy tourists for a few minutes to see what it was like. (I don't think they do that anymore when the doors got stuck and people were stranded in there for hours.) Anyway, Frisco awaits with treasures around every corner.
On this trip we decided to brave the city by driving in over the Bay Bridge. We researched inexpensive lots to park, and there are quite a few, but since we had our luggage, we didn't want to end up on some crazy YouTube video trying to navigate the city, trailing our luggage behind us. So, we just added the $40/night cost our convenient Fisherman's Wharf hotel charged in to the price staying in such a cool city.
Fisherman's Wharf was different from what I remembered it was 30+ years ago. It seemed smaller. Maybe it's because we are savvier and trim our trips to manageable lengths.
Strolling down Fisherman's Wharf, the street is alive with crab vendors and opportunities to buy the famous sourdough bread. Some people love this bread, but, frankly, I was disappointed. I guess I'm just a French baguette fan. For dinner we were fortunate enough to have made an online reservation, months ahead of time at The Franciscan restaurant, right on the water, with 180 degree views overlooking the bay. Turns out, we wouldn't have been able to eat there (on the 4th of July!) if we hadn't had the foresight to plan ahead. They were booked up.
We started out with gorgeous (and tasty!) crab cocktails that looked like art in a champagne glass.
We all had the Dungeness crab that we dipped into drawn butter. (What else are people supposed to have in San Francisco?) Except my darling husband, who kinda hates crab. He ordered an heirloom cherry tomato Caprese pasta dish. Of course he let me try it. Delicious! Even though he doesn't like crab, he was sweet to order the crab cocktails for all of us, because he knew that our daughter would love the presentation. I truly recommend this restaurant for the ambiance, the service, the views, and the delicious crab.
After dinner we parted ways with our kids for a couple hours, vowing to meet up later to watch the fireworks. Since we wanted to visit Pier 39 and compare it to what we saw on our honeymoon, we headed down the waterfront to try and work off some of the calories we just consumed.
Pier 39 is an explosion of shops and restaurants, nothing like we remembered. Traditionally beachy and clad in white washed clapboard, the intriguing shopping area has almost any type of store to tempt your gift-giving dollars. Alas, we arrived too late at night to take part in any kind of shopping madness, but it was bright and inviting, even at night.
One place I didn't want to miss was Ghirardelli Square, which is at the other end of Fisherman's Wharf. (Conveniently, it is located next to a park which proved to be a perfect vantage point when viewing the firework display.) It's a beautiful brick structure with multiple levels of shops culminating in the actual CHOCOLATE shop. All kinds of delicious, decadent chocolate. Of course we had to indulge. Upon entering we were handed a sample square of the chocolate, as though the smell wasn't enticing enough. The problem becomes what not to buy. I found myself conjuring up obscure cousins just so that I could buy one more bar of chocolate. I'm pretty sure these rich delights didn't make it into the "cousins'" hands.
Mysterious Exquisite Venice
It's hard to deny that a glide down the Grand Canal in Venice, Italy is wonderfully romantic. The majestic palazzos seem to float on the water with no visible means of support. However, be warned: in July Venice teems with vacationers and pigeons.
I really don't mind either. Crowds don't bother me and to get to the pigeons, I mean, St. Mark's Square, all you really have to do is follow the largest crowds. (OK, maybe people don't really visit St. Mark's Square for the pigeons.) The street signs are small and high up on the buildings. Sometimes we felt that we were venturing into a rabbit warren, since the streets were like alleyways, but eventually the cramped quarters spilled us out into magnificent St Mark's Square (Piazza San Marco). Of course, we took the obligatory photo op to smile with pigeons feasting on the bird seed in our hands with stunning St. Mark's Cathedral, Doges Palace and other palatial structures lining the piazza in the background. People have told us that pigeons are flying rats, but I prefer to look at their gorgeous iridescent plumage. And the location-WOW!
Gondolas were bobbing in the waters of the harbor (and almost every canal), and I thought I really wanted to ride in one of those famous crafts. But, when we asked how much it was, the grumpy gondolier said the ride was going to cost what amounted to $150. I’m pretty sure we would have taken the trip if the man would have been pleasant, despite the high price. However, we like to support pleasant people, so after participating in many of the activities Venice has to offer, we ended up never taking a real Venetian gondola ride. (We had already had a really fun gondola ride at the Venetian hotel in Vegas and wanted to up the ante in Venice. Too bad it never happened.)
What did happen was something I longed for before I went to Venice. I'm a big fan of Shakespeare and I teach The Merchant of Venice in my classes. Shakespeare often refers to masques, masquerade parties that his characters reveled in. Venice is known for their exquisitely crafted masks worn during the huge festival, Carnevale, or as it's known in New Orleans, Mardi Gras. I was on the lookout to purchase a mask. Turns out, they sell masks on every street corner and many little shops, but I wanted one that was unique.
Turns out I had to leave the islands of Venice to find the perfect mask. The second day we were in Venice, we decided to take the ferry to the two famous islands of Murano and Burano just east and north of Venice. Murano is famous for its many talented glass blowing artists. The glass blowers were banished to this island for fear that they would set Venice on fire with the intense heat of their torches. If you are at all intrigued with this beautiful and amazing art, this island is not to be missed. Various artists offer demonstrations and all sell their wares. We happened upon a shop that sold both blown glass ($5-$500,000) and the most intricate and gorgeous Venetian masks we had seen. This is the one I finally settled on:
Not wanting to trust the baggage handlers at the airports, we asked if they could ship it to our house in the States. Indeed they could, but they only shipped items twice a year. What?! Really?! We certainly weren't in Kansas anymore. The next time was in September, two months from now. With not much choice, for about a $20 shipping fee we had to trust that he would indeed have my lovely mask delivered safe and sound to my doorstep. He assured us with a business card and the fact that he had been in business for about a thousand years. (Everything is so old in Europe--we had to adjust our way of thinking.) So, $200 (shipping included) later I said good-by to my mask, wondering if it would actually make it to Colorado. Onward to the next island: Burano.
Once I had arranged for my mask to be shipped it was time to travel to another outlying island: Burano. A striking feature of this island is the canal lined with many colored houses. Legend has it that since it becomes so foggy in this part of the Adriatic Sea that the fishermen could not find their way home. So, they decided to paint their house vibrant colors, so that they would stand out in the fog. To this day, there is a law in place that mandates these vivid colors. Think this looks like a postcard? They look just as unreal in person. This island is legendary for its handmade intricate lace. Be warned: the shops do sell lace made in China that is not handmade as well. If the price seems too good to be true, look at the label. However, you can find some beautiful textiles at reasonable prices.
The islands were fun, but we were anxious to get back to the respite of our AC in our gorgeous hotel.
The Hotel Giorgio is housed in one of the palazzos down a narrow passageway just east of San Marco in Venice. Unassuming at first, the inside exudes a gracious atmosphere, resplendent in Murano glass chandeliers and swathed in gold and red velvet. Our spacious room with pillow-top mattresses on the beds, a sumptuously upholstered settee, and a large en suite bathroom was not expensive by European standards-less than $200 /night. The staff was friendly and accommodated all our needs.
Every afternoon around 4 pm the hotel offered delicious sweet peach tea and cookies served on an ornate table right under a magnificent Murano blown glass chandelier.
We took our refreshments out to a lovely courtyard to relax after a frenzied day of crowded ferry trips. Every morning the breakfast display looked like a work of art. As a bonus, all of the offerings were tasty as well.
Venice is a mysterious, intriguing destination. If you relax and allow yourself to go with the flow, you'll enjoy all it has to offer.
Tips:
--Have you seen the charming bridges crossing all the canals in Venice? Don't try to roll your luggage behind you when crossing them. They have steps, not ramps! You'll end up carrying your heavy suitcases over every canal like we did! Yikes!
--Don't wait for the water taxi to be less crowded. Italians expect to be squished on those rides.
--Try not to go to the satellite islands in the middle of the day because the people seriously take a two-hour lunch. Most of the shops will be closed and you'll need to come back later if you want to see glass-blowing demonstrations.
--Be advised that the shops and museums in Venice close early--by about six pm. So, after dinner, if you don't want to drink, there is not much to do in the evening in Venice. And, it's a little dark and creepy.